Fabric Selection: Quality vs. Cost Trade-offs

Fabric is the foundation of your product. Choose wrong, and customers won't come back—no matter how good your designs are. Choose right, and you've built quality into your brand from day one. Here's how to navigate the trade-offs.

Understanding GSM (Grams per Square Meter)

GSM is the weight of your fabric. Higher GSM = heavier, usually more durable fabric. Lower GSM = lighter, more breathable. There's no "best" GSM—it depends on your product and positioning.

• Light (120-180 GSM): Summer tees, tank tops, promotional items
• Medium (180-220 GSM): Year-round basics, standard streetwear tees
• Heavy (220-300+ GSM): Premium tees, hoodies, outerwear

Fiber Content: Cotton, Poly, Blends

The fiber determines how your garment feels, washes, prints, and ages:

100% Cotton

Breathable, soft, takes dye and print well. Shrinks after washing (factor this into sizing). Ring-spun cotton is softer than standard. Combed cotton is even softer (and more expensive).

Cotton-Poly Blends

Usually 50/50 or 60/40. Less shrinkage, more durability, better moisture-wicking. Feels less premium to many customers, but performs better for athletic or workwear use.

Tri-Blends

Cotton, polyester, and rayon. Ultra-soft "vintage" feel. More expensive, but customers love the hand feel. Great for premium positioning.

The Real Cost Breakdown

Fabric typically accounts for 40-60% of your garment cost. Here's what drives price:

• Fiber quality: Combed ring-spun > ring-spun > carded open-end
• GSM: More fabric = more cost
• Certifications: GOTS organic, OEKO-TEX add 15-30%
• MOQ: Custom fabric has higher minimums and cost
• Country of origin: US/Portugal > Turkey > China/Bangladesh

Quality vs. Margin: Finding Your Balance

Don't default to the cheapest option. Your fabric choice signals your brand's quality to customers—and they can feel the difference.

Ask yourself:

• What's my target retail price? Work backward from there.
• Who's my customer? Hypebeasts expect heavy blanks. Budget shoppers accept lighter weights.
• What's my product's lifecycle? One-time merch can go lighter. Core pieces need durability.

Testing Before Committing

Never commit to a large order without testing:

• Order swatches (most suppliers send free samples)
• Wash test 3+ times—check for shrinkage, pilling, color fading
• Compare side-by-side with competitor products
• Get feedback from target customers before production

The Bottom Line

Fabric quality is where brand perception starts. Cut corners here, and everything else suffers. Invest in fabric that matches your brand positioning, and your customers will notice.